Choosing the correct size of bike is essential if you are to feel comfortable when riding, it will also make the bike more efficient and easier to handle. Within this guide we will attempt to give basic guidance on choosing the most suitable frame size for you.
A good starting point for you, a new cyclist, is to measure your inside leg which will determine your stand over height. The stand over height is the clearance between your crotch and the top tube of the bike when stood just in front of the saddle and comes into play when you need to dismount quickly; this is more likely on an MTB so we would suggest at least 1", but recommend 2". As well as your inside leg length you should also measure your height, this gives you two points of reference to help choose the size of bike from the bike size charts, which are located near the bottom of this page. Bike frame sizes usually increase in 2cm increments for road bikes and 2” increments for mountain bikes, so get someone else to measure you carefully as accurate measurements are essential.
As a bike seat tube length, or frame size increases so does the top tube and head tube length to keep the bike in proportion. So, if you find yourself in between sizes based on your height and inside leg length the upper body should be the deciding factor, because your reach to the bars will be affected. To help work out if you have a long or short reach you need to determine your ‘Ape Index’ this is your arm span (finger tip to finger tip) minus your height. If you have a positive 'Ape Index' (your arm span is greater than your height) then go for the larger of the two sizes. If you have a negative 'Ape Index' (your height is greater than your arm span) then go for the smaller of the two sizes.
If you already have a bike that you are comfortable on you can measure the frame size. The two most commonly stated frame measurements are centre to top (a to c on the diagram to the right) or centre to centre (a to b). These measurements refer to the centre of the bottom bracket axle to either the top of the seat tube or middle of top tube in line with the seat tube. Other dimensions to take into account are the top tube and head tube, these determine your reach and your handlebar height. All dimensions have a certain amount of adjustment, saddle height and set back is adjusted via the seat post, handlebar reach is adjusted with stem lengths and saddle fore/aft adjustment, whilst handlebar height can be adjusted via spacers or different angle stems. But, it is essential you get the most appropriate frame size so that all these dimensions can be achieved. Manufacturers can state either measurement on your frame, so always check which they have used when viewing their range. When comparing frame sizes you should also take into account the style of frame, especially road bikes which come in traditional, semi compact or compact geometries
Glossary of frame terms
Choosing the correct size of bike is classed by age as opposed to height. Kids are still learning to ride, so it's important the bike you buy them fits correctly and is not too big! This is a common mistake in parents wanting to stretch out the life of a bike. The fact remains that when a child is learning, they often need to step forward off the saddle, so they straddle the top tube. It's important the frame isn't so big they risk hurting themselves when this happens.
Our guide table below suggests which wheel sizes are most suitable for which age range. You know your child best. If he/she is tallest in the class and is at the top of a size range, then go for the next wheel size up. If your child's age is in the middle of the range, try and resist the urge to 'upsize' them to get extra life out of the bike. This will be counter-productive to the childs enjoyment of learning to handle a bicycle.
Time Trial and Triathlon bikes are slightly different with regards to sizing, the aim of a TT/Tri frame is to get a flat back and reduce your aerodynamic drag. A TT or Tri bike will have a slightly steeper seat tube angle; this moves your saddle position forward so the angle between your torso and thighs is not reduced excessively. The reason for this is because if your thighs come up too high you will lose power, so by moving the saddle position forward and your bars being lower you do not lose any power, but gain an aerodynamic benefit. The diagram (right) shows the two positions, notice how the TT/Tri position results in lower front end whilst retaining the angle between thigh and torso, you will also see how the point of contact with the saddle is further forward while the reach to the handlebars is more or less the same.
Kids
We hope you have found this guidance useful and if you have any further queries regarding sizing please feel free to email our specialist cycle advisors at sales@wiggle.co.uk who will be pleased help.