Miche Performance 57mm Drop Brake Caliper Set
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10+ In stock, ready for despatch now
Light weight alloy with heat-treated steel pivots.
Top Features of the Miche Performance 57mm Drop Brake Caliper Set
- Special steel chrome-plated screws and nuts
- Dual pivot
- 41-57mm drop
- Anodised silver or black
- Weight 325g
About Rim Brakes
Rim brakes for bikes use the sidewall of the rim to reduce speed, this is done by a pad on either side applying friction against the rim, which reduces your momentum. Road brake callipers have been redesigned over the years and now use a system called 'dual pivot' which means the brake arms pivot off centre to apply a higher amount of pressure on the rim to increase your stopping power. Most manufacturers use dual pivot callipers on the front and rear, but some Campagnolo brakes use a traditional single pivot on the rear to 'balance' the braking power, the logic behind this is that as you brake your weight shifts on to the front of the bike and as much as 75% of the braking force is applied to the front.
About the Miche brand
Miche ... since 1919, a passion that grows. It's been "90 years" since Ferdinando Michelin, almost on a bet, began to produce bicycles and components with facilities including some with his concept design, proceeding with his son Italo - now president of the company - and arriving now-days in the directive hands of his nephew Luigi, with a wealth of knowledge and expertise that makes Miche, one of the leading global manufacturer companies of special components for Cycles (by road, by Track and Mountain Bike), designed and produced entirely in Italy.
100% Made in Italy, is for Miche, a choice motivated by a constant pursuit of absolute quality, from a story that has traveled all the roads of cycling, from the dusty ones, to those supertechnological and futuristic, constantly following a World in changing: the World of Cycling.
To build its products, Miche, employs the most innovative technologies, production processes and the finest materials: carbon, light alloys and composite materials.
The manufacturing of the entire range of Miche products, are performed within the factory of San Vendemmiano (Treviso - Italy) or directly controlled to have 'the hand' of what the brand MICHE will carry in the world and, while supported by robotic machines and numerical control the whole process has a decisive run by technicians who work with high professionalism, but above all with real passion for cycling, that passion that leads to refined insights concerning the evolution of each component.
To validate the "functionality" and the long lasting lifetime "endurance" of the constituents, constant testings are performed within the company (with repeated testing and laboratory analysis), and directly on the road by teams of professionals in national and international competitions, because any product with the Miche label, is a "90 years" absolute quality.
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Product Q & A
Ask your questions and share your answers.
Simplistically it's the distance from the retaining bolt measured straight downwards to where the wheel rim is.
I've adjusted the brakes so they're within a millimetre of the rim, tightened the barrel adjuster, replaced the pads and cleaned the rims, but it still feels sluggish and rubbish. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
1) Check the brake is properly centered
2) Check that the wheel is true
3) Remove the cable and try close the brake manually. It should be able to lock the wheel with a moderate pressure
4) With the cable remove make sure the brake lever is pulling the cable with enough strength. You can do this by holding the cable with a pliers and pulling the lever. It should be quite hard to hold the able with the pliers.
5) Make sure brake pads are even and that there is no dirt or oil residue on the pads or the rim. I usually clean the rim and the pads with some alcohol based product.
Check out Sheldon Brown
- The front break on the back using the old nut of my previous break.
- The Back break on fork using the Front allen nut (wich is longer) and it fit perfect.
I case of the diameter of the steering tube being wider than the nut. you can put the nut in only one fixed point. I mean bike upside down, long tool put the nut inside the fork (inside the steering tube hole ) that should work too.
I made a bigger hole in the frame.
So, the first part of the screw can como into, and the only the end wold over the frame.
It looks nice, and I think is sure enough.
If it's the front brake I just had to drill the rear hole to 8mm but on the back brake, because of the location I had to drill out both front and back as I couldn't access just the front hole because of my frame getting in the way of the drill. Hasn't affected the brakes in any way.
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